Gardening tips because I'm a plant killer

[Blasphemy]

Every plant I touch dies. Which is quite insulting and also a bit hurtful. Also an inactive thread might as well be no thread so anyone got tips on how to not kill plants?

Also, if you can and want to, answer me this. I tried planting green beans (kacang hijau) for a project once. Put 3 or 4 into the pot.

A week later, found out it wasn't growing. I have no idea why. It's not like I buried it too deep into the soil, and I watered it regularly in moderate amounts and also put it in a place that had enough sunlight. What went wronggg

 

[Ravenade]

Maybe you plant it in cool or wet weather. Green beans tend to die in that weather and I think the plant got too much water? We also had a project about plants like this and we just watered it once enough for a week and check it everyday cause sometimes the soils tend to dry out. Or there's insect that's been killing your plant? Just my opinion.

 

[Blasphemy]

Maybe you plant it in cool or wet weather. Green beans tend to die in that weather and I think the plant got too much water? We also had a project about plants like this and we just watered it once enough for a week and check it everyday cause sometimes the soils tend to dry out. Or there's insect that's been killing your plant? Just my opinion.

That could be possible, but the thing is, my entire class planted their beans in the same location and weather, so it doesn't make sense to me why (most of) their plants survived and mine didn't. It also doesn't look like there were any signs of insects...

 

[Ravenade]

That could be possible, but the thing is, my entire class planted their beans in the same location and weather, so it doesn't make sense to me why (most of) their plants survived and mine didn't. It also doesn't look like there were any signs of insects...

Someone maybe sabotaging you...? In that case I don't really know.

 

[Kellanoa]

You must talk to the plant then give it a name like peter the plant.

 

[Blasphemy]

Someone maybe sabotaging you...? In that case I don't really know.

Lmao that's certainly far fetched. But also...plausible...

Thanks for trying to help anyhow.

 

[Tempestive]

I'd reccomend pre-germinating the mung beans before sowing them - put them inside an opaque tupperware, between moist sheets of paper, and check on them regularly, maintaining the humidity. Alternatively, you can simply leave them a jar of water until you see them soften and open up, optimally due to the cotiledon popping out.
Maybe even try both, see which works better in your climate. Avoid low temperatures, and in the case of the transparent jar method, direct sunlight (dark spot ideally).


Regarding potted plants, the most frequent reason for plants dying indoors is overwatering. Keeping in mind indoor plants are less exposed to winds and heat/radiation, the water in the substrate will take longer to evaporate, and it's important to make sure the substrate isn't still wet when you go water it.

Roots need to breathe, and if they're submerged in water for extended periods of time they'll be in anaerobiosis (no oxygen) and will rot.
Conditions of excess humidity also favour the appearance of plague like aphids and coccineals, and once the feedback loop of a weakened plant being attacked by insects that in turn make it weaker, it's harder to get it to recover.

So the trick is only watering indoor plants when the substrate is dry - use a stick, or a wooden spoon, and stab the soil to a decent depth. If soil comes stuck to the wood, still moist, don't water the pot. Kind of like making a cake.


It's better to let the plant be a bit thirsty than drowning it. A trained eye can easily spot a thirsty plant due to the leaves changing shape to preserve humidity.


Edit: just realised that's not what you asked about the mung beans xD
Seeds require certains conditions to be met to germinate. Temperature, light exposure, humidity, microbian soil activity... it's hard to pinpoint the issue with such little information, specially in biological science where a multitude of variables come into play. Could've been that lack of water at a specific critical period interrupted the process. Could be that they didn't acumulate enough heat hours. and so on.

 

[Blasphemy]

I'd reccomend pre-germinating the mung beans before sowing them - put them inside an opaque tupperware, between moist sheets of paper, and check on them regularly, maintaining the humidity. Alternatively, you can simply leave them a jar of water until you see them soften and open up, optimally due to the cotiledon popping out.
Maybe even try both, see which works better in your climate. Avoid low temperatures, and in the case of the transparent jar method, direct sunlight (dark spot ideally).


Regarding potted plants, the most frequent reason for plants dying indoors is overwatering. Keeping in mind indoor plants are less exposed to winds and heat/radiation, the water in the substrate will take longer to evaporate, and it's important to make sure the substrate isn't still wet when you go water it.

Roots need to breathe, and if they're submerged in water for extended periods of time they'll be in anaerobiosis (no oxygen) and will rot.
Conditions of excess humidity also favour the appearance of plague like aphids and coccineals, and once the feedback loop of a weakened plant being attacked by insects that in turn make it weaker, it's harder to get it to recover.

So the trick is only watering indoor plants when the substrate is dry - use a stick, or a wooden spoon, and stab the soil to a decent depth. If soil comes stuck to the wood, still moist, don't water the pot. Kind of like making a cake.


It's better to let the plant be a bit thirsty than drowning it. A trained eye can easily spot a thirsty plant due to the leaves changing shape to preserve humidity.


Edit: just realised that's not what you asked about the mung beans xD
Seeds require certains conditions to be met to germinate. Temperature, light exposure, humidity, microbian soil activity... it's hard to pinpoint the issue with such little information, specially in biological science where a multitude of variables come into play. Could've been that lack of water at a specific critical period interrupted the process. Could be that they didn't acumulate enough heat hours. and so on.

I feel kinda sorry for making you type out all of that only to realise it had nothing to do with my question. So basically, you're not very sure why my mungs died since there are many variables that come into play.

And just out of curiosity, why pre-germinate them?

Also, you think this could have turned out better if I just used the transparent jar method? I've done it before and that time, it actually worked, but when I planted mung beans in a pot (as mentioned in this thread), it didn't? Is it somehow easier to use the transparent jar method?

 

[Tempestive]

I feel kinda sorry for making you type out all of that only to realise it had nothing to do with my question. So basically, you're not very sure why my mungs died since there are many variables that come into play.

And just out of curiosity, why pre-germinate them?

Also, you think this could have turned out better if I just used the transparent jar method? I've done it before and that time, it actually worked, but when I planted mung beans in a pot (as mentioned in this thread), it didn't? Is it somehow easier to use the transparent jar method?

Hehe it's quite alright, I should've been a more attentive reader I just decided to keep it there as it could be useful anyway.

Think of seeds as little cargo holds of resources with a little engine that allows it to sprout. After they sprout and gain root, they start getting resources from the environment around them, and no longer need this initial "fake" leaf I mentioned before, the cotiledon.
By leaving them in water, you soften the exterior layers of the bean. Kind of a kickstarter if you want to think of it that way, instead of that softening and process triggers happening in the damp soil. You'll save some time for yourself and some effort for the seed.

Then when reaching a decent size, transplant them to soil if you want them to grow. Take care to position the bud upwards and not covering it completely, as well as not drowning them (try sprinkling or even watering to the side so the water won't be on them directly).
If want them for fresh microgreens or something you likely don't even need any soil.

 

[Blasphemy]

Hehe it's quite alright, I should've been a more attentive reader I just decided to keep it there as it could be useful anyway.

Think of seeds as little cargo holds of resources with a little engine that allows it to sprout. After they sprout and gain root, they start getting resources from the environment around them, and no longer need this initial "fake" leaf I mentioned before, the cotiledon.
By leaving them in water, you soften the exterior layers of the bean. Kind of a kickstarter if you want to think of it that way, instead of that softening and process triggers happening in the damp soil. You'll save some time for yourself and some effort for the seed.

Then when reaching a decent size, transplant them to soil if you want them to grow. Take care to position the bud upwards and not covering it completely, as well as not drowning them (try sprinkling or even watering to the side so the water won't be on them directly).
If want them for fresh microgreens or something you likely don't even need any soil.

Oh, so if you pre-germinate a seed, you soften the exterior layers, so the root doesn't need to struggle to pop out. And then when it's big enough, you move it. But is it more efficient if you just planted it into soil in a pot from the get-go?

 

[Tempestive]

It all depends. We are, after all, trying to replicate natural systems. Often the compost you get bagged up in the garden center in a pot in your living room or even balcony/garden isn't enough And you can do this process in motte trays so you have a practical way to transplant once it takes, without stressing the plant. And even though it might take more of you time it's easier to manage humidity in a smaller volume of substrate than a larger one.
And if potting indoors, make sure your vase has a hole or more in the bottom, with a plate underneath. Don't let still water accumulate on that plate and general rule, you're golden.

We can ease some processes by intervening at certain points. Some hard-shelled seeds are even scraped for the effect mentioned before.
In nature, it's not uncommon for animals who don't fully digest seeds to take a big role in this, and poop them out in a nice bundle of goodies.

There are also cultivars, cultivated varieties, which have been cross-bred or modified to fit certain needs (culturally or even nutritionally). Most varieties of fruits we get at the supermarket aren't likely to be good for propagation via seed due to this (hybrids from seed are sterile, you'll get a plant and even flower but no fruit: you clone the mother plant for propagation of fruit-bearing individuals). My genetics are a bit rusty but I don't think I'm saying anything wrong hehe.

I just thought I might have some nice general manuals around here in PDF, I'll look for them and upload them if I find them.


Edit: typo

 

[Tempestive]

But is it more efficient if you just planted it into soil in a pot from the get-go?

Generally you don't need to soak seeds or soften their exterior layers, and can simply sow them in substrate that you keep moist and away from any cold, and they'll sprout and grow. Some have their "tricks" though, and this is one I find to work well for beans, prior to then going through the "normal" process of sowing to a small container, and then repotting once better developed and able to handle any stress better.

 

[Tempestive]

Compiled a few resources and uploaded on here.
Hope it's helpful!

 

[Blasphemy]

Geez louise it's more than helpful. Thanks for your advice kind samaritan!
I tried the link but it's not working tho..

 

[Tempestive]

Might've still been under moderation, should be working now

 

[Awasad]

That definitely is a lot of advice, I don't even intend to plant any plant but still got me interested

 

[jihyonh]

As a fellow plant killer, I've realized few things - one is that indoors don't work for us. Needs to be outside until winter.
Unless the plant is growing palm-tree related plant (stronger than cactus than people would think because plant killers easily rot the roots by over-watering)
Or you'd be willing to buy and stick liquid fertilizer to its dirt. (Plants with flowers just grows in size and rarely bloom unless you do)

As for the beans, I believe they were supposed to be sprouted before grounding them...?
I had the same school assignment once in kindergarten but I remember the procedure.
To sprout them you were to place the beans sandwiched in a slightly damp paper towel and put them in a dark place,
watering only once a day just enough to dampen the paper towel again.
Should take to less than a week to see the sprout, I think. 4 days or so? Good luck after that <- Never got to see it grow into a beanstalk

 

[Awasad]

Aaaalright yeah that is something I do need to know. I happen to have noticed my outside plants hold on better than the indoors. Might just be because they're cacti but I dunno.

 

[Tempestive]

Usually "indoor plants" are from tropical or subtropical climates - they don't like direct sunlight (they have much taller plants around in they natural environment), like slightly acidic soil (high content of organic matter in very active soils, like tropical ones), and some air moisture.

The most critical aspect is indeed watering. Since we're trying to reproduce soil in a pot, we need to do things a bit differently than nature would. Everything from temperature to plant competition affects water intake and evaporation. By eliminating dozens of variable as we bring them to our homes, we need to understand the effect of the timing of our watering, and the factors that influence it (like vase size, material, wind or light exposure, etc).

Like I mentioned above, only watering when the soil in the vase is dry is a good golden rule for not overwatering. Stab the soil with a wooden cocktail toothpick ot wooden spoon, and check if soil comes on the wood. if it doesn't, it's pretty dry (like making a cake).

Having a sacrificial plant to test it out before comitting to a larger (maybe more expensive) plant may be a good idea.